so my car was running sum what fine other then the TPS being bad and throwing a code.. the idle was always fine after driving around it would stay at around 800 anyways i decided to try and get the tps code of and went to the junkyard and bought a throttle body off a 91 integra and threw it on my car now the car feels sluggish or hesitent to go and when i press the gas it feels weird like if i push on it a little it does nothing till the pedals about halfway and when im driving the car will just go flat rpm sometime it will just die all i did was swap the TB....im currently not throwing any cels so i have no clue and sometimes the car will backfire on deaccel im thinking of swaping the old TB back on and puttin the good TPS on that TB any one have a idea of what would cause this... car is a eg with high comp ls and a stock pr4

what I have is a fully built h22 that has been tuned by servion it was running perfect for a few days after until my adjustable cam gear got loose and now its all whack.

so here what happen my cams gear was set at 0 degree before, during, and after the tune. so one day the cam gear came loose and the reason I knew it came loose because I can hear it making noise therefore I went check it and put it back to 0 again. it was running fine until I drop it down the block then came back thats is when everything start acting up. ok this what I have done so far.


1. I thought the valve is bent from the off timng so I did a leak dow test like at least 5 times confirming that all cyclinder is holding pressure very well so I know for a fact mechanically its good

2. I have replace like 3 other map sensor still the same thing and of course everytime I replace map I change the map peramiter in the s300

3. check spark plugs its super black and wet with gas that how i know it running rich

4. let cyclinder dry out over night with plugs out still same thing

5. with all map sensor it have a hard time starting and if it start it idle for like a few second then shuts off

6. I try to decrease fuel on the s300 still same thing.

7. test for spark for each cyclinder for sure there is spark and fuel obvisously because each plug is wet

anyone else have any ideas what the hell is going on with this situation help is appreciated

well i got a friend with a 92 honda accord he just bought a "NEW" remanufactured dizzy from autozone it dident come with the cap or rotor.. after he installed the part the car ran for about a week and died again so he replaced the cap and rotor plugs and wires and now he's still not gettin any spark we never messed with any of the ground or anything besides the dizzy and its 2 plugs and 3 bolts hes only had this new dizzy for about 2 weeks is it possible the ignitor or coil went out inside the dizzy? i told him to return the dizzy and have autozone get him another 1...i dont know what else to tell him being that the dizzy is new

here is the situation, car went to sam to get e-85 tune done. we figured out that it needed a new waste gate because it wouldn't go above 12 psi. we put a new wastegate on and found that there was a leak thru one of the intercoller tube (fixed that) (the old wastegate was junk so kept the new one on anyways). at this point i beleive it made 318 at 12 psi? but when trying to turn the boost up (17psi) it would not get anymore power out of it.

the turbo a very minal shaft play (garett 60-1) and no smoke whatsoever. motor as good compression, and the vaccum seem to be holding the the intercoller pipes with no leaks.

motor: b16a 60-1 garett. this set up made 402 on pump gas and cat on.

thoughts?

I need to know what type of fluid goes into manual transmission in a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2.0 Non-Turbo.

Hey I can't remember where I saw this but it was one here somewhere, and someone was looking for an b20 crv AWD transmission. I was browsing online and found one for sale.

If you are looking for one PLEASE PM ME or let me know I'll try to find it again but it was here locally in Denver I believe.

I just thought might be helpful because those are hard to find especially, the 5 Speed AWD B-SERIES ONES!

WELL GOOD LUCK HOPE WHOEVER NEEDS IT READS THIS THREAD!

what would cause a cars oil light to come on besides low oil ?

Hey I got a b16 and my timing belt is crazy loose never had a motor with a t-belt so loose. So I don't have the money to replace it with a NEw one, but I have a couple of other used ones pr3 & p72 and the one that's on my motor now is p72..

Does anyone know if p72 timing belts are the same as pr3 timing belts. I'm wondering if the reason why its so loose is because its a b16 with p72 T-belt.
And the guy I bought the motor from I'm sure has tampered with it a bit I can tell. Plus few things were taken off before I bought it from him.

Well if anyone knows spec's on difference PR3 & P72 Timing belts PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!

Also I understand how to replace a timing belt but I never had to do one or have done one ever.

There's steps like taking upper and bottom plastics covers off which I have done, and the fork block mount the two bolts are off. The third one isn't off because I'm waiting to see if the belt I have on still is the right one and will work okay if so I'll just tighten it and replace with a new one when I have money.... Well I also understand that the tensioner bolt needs to be loosened I did that too...Then turn it 3 teeth counter clock wise at the crank/under drive pulley.... Haven't done that yet Obviously

So could someone give me advice on how to do this properly and quickly just want to know the best way of doing this because I have everything taken off just need to tighten the proper belt on there if its the pr3 or p72.

Just don't want to get more and more frustrated than I already am.

Anyone with knowledge/advice/experience help me out

Thanks for taking the time and reading this!

so i found this this shop in cali thts been sleeving and building honda motors for 10 years. there giving me a sponsorship price of 700 for bored, sleeved, honed, decked, hot tanked, and o ringed. im just wondering if any ones heard of this shop JG Engine Dynamics http://jgenginedynamics.com/Block_sleeving.html

ok i got a 2000 dx coupe and i got a set of 2000 si doors complete, i need help!!!! what wiring do i gotta do??? nd what kinda process do i have to do to complete this? can any one help lol

i have a buddy with a 92 accord he said he is throwing a cel...i was wondering if the process of checking the cel is the same as checking the cel on a 92-95 civic

Does anyone know this guy?
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1864264201.html

Really interested in picking up the B18C bare block and don't know what to look for/inspect.

Asked if any known problems & he said no. Was working when pulled.
Asked if any stripped holes, cracked walls, warpage, he said no. He did state that he sprayed some N02, 40 shot for about 2 months.

I'm planning to meet up with him tomorrow nite & am looking for suggestions on what to check.

Will be bringing calipers to measure bore. Will take a close look at the walls. Will make sure it's not all rusted.

Is there anything else you'd check?
Do you think $175 is a decent deal? Was gonna offer $140.

Any sound advice is appreciated.

Lao

Hello HAI. Since I am overhauling a lot of the crap on my car, and I have the goals of lapping at HPR I am going to get stainless lines. But, there are so many brands and stuff out there that I want peoples opinion of them.

Basically I have narrowed it down to stop-tech and goodridge (goodrich, whatever I dobn't remember exactly. I have heard good things abut Earl's and stuff, but they are the priciest and I am not sure if they are worth the price increase.

Is Goodrigde and Stop Tech good? Will the goodridge hold up for years? The Goodridge is around 100, the stoptech 160 for front and rears. I have heard of stop tech, but for the price I am leaning towards the goodrigde.

Thoughts? Sorry for the noob post, but i have never had upgraded brakelines. I assume stainless is stainless, and if it meets manufacturers specs it should be good but I thought I would ask you guys and gals.

And are legend Calipers only single piston? Thinking of going that route as well for teh bigger brakes so the 22" rims I throw on won't look silluy with small brakes. Yes, I will be putting on stickers of some reputable candy company so I get respect.

I bought my hatch with eg seats welded in! I would like to know what honda seats if any would bolt in.
I would also like to know if 88 sedan front seats will fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Anyone do alarm installs? How much!