Replacing a timing belt on an Integra?

[Weston]

Has anyone here replaced a timing belt on a 2nd/3rd gen Integra, or any b-series Honda engine for that matter?

Is there anything special that a non-mechanic such as myself would have trouble doing? Any special tools that I'll need? I've heard that getting the crank pulley off is the hardest part? Is that true? Could I do it with a breaker bar, or is an impact socket the only way to go? How difficult is it to get the cams and crank lined up properly?

I'll have a whole weekend and my garage to do it in, so time isn't an issue... I just want to make sure I'm capable of doing everything before I order the parts and attempt this.

[Maverick]

You have to find some way to make the crank not move while you get the bolt to break loose. I tried an electric impact wrench that was supposedly good to 245 ft/lbs or torque but it didn't seem to budge. Its worth a shot to try a newer electric impact, the one I had was older and used quite a bit. Or a regular compressed air impact wrench with like 130psi. Don't forget to loosend the timing belt tensioner..........there is a hole in the timing belt cover, use a 14mm socket to loosen the bolt. Note: there might be a cover for the timing tensioner hole.....just pull it back or pry it off. If you don't move the crank or the cams in the time between the old belt coming off and the new belt going on then there shouldn't be any problem...........just slide the new timing belt on. Oh yeah the crank bolt should be 19mm. HTH

[Jai SI]

Yeah the crank bolt is a 19mm, and my uncle has this tool that straps a chain around the crank pulleys that holds it tight, it's like 180 bucks though, then I just use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt. I only use my air impact on shit that never seems to come off haha. If the belt hasn't snapped or anything, you can just mark with white-out where the belt touches the gear at around TDC and BDC. Be sure to line up the new belt and the old belt and mark off where the white out hits. I don't think that whole white out thing makes sense in my words..anybody explain better? I'll take pics if I get one to do tomorrow.

[HONDA GHANDI]

Originally posted by 94hatch
I tried an electric impact wrench that was supposedly good to 245 ft/lbs or torque but it didn't seem to budge.


HAHA! My Snap-on (rated at 600 ft/lbs in reverse) sometimes wont do it either. But as in life to make more power I just up the shop pressure (boost) and off she goes. Yous should hear how cool my gun sounds at 200 psi. ZING!

[exciv2000]

Originally posted by HONDA GHANDI
HAHA! My Snap-on (rated at 600 ft/lbs in reverse) sometimes wont do it either. But as in life to make more power I just up the shop pressure (boost) and off she goes. Yous should hear how cool my gun sounds at 200 psi. ZING!

Just for a crank pulley?! Damn, I didn't realize they put those things on their so tight. I guess I'll never be able to change my belts with a 20 gallon 6 HP porter cable 135 PSI tank then eh?? That's what I was planning on getting for Christmas.

[HONDA GHANDI]

You never know, you might get lucky.

[Maverick]

The crank bolt torque specs out of my book say to put the bolt on with 134 ft/lbs. It takes a lot more than that to get them off. BTW Tobi, how much was your snap on electric impact?

[scoobyworx]

It's quite the bitch to do. You gotta make sure everything is all lined up or your timing could be off. I like Jai Si's idea about the white out. That will help you know where to put it back on.

[Jai SI]

Yeah I love the white out thing. I just hate when I do belt where they've snapped or the teeth have been stripped off, it's not much harder, but it is harder.

[exciv2000]

A question about impact wrenches, as I've never really held one or used one... do they have the ability to nearly break your arms from twisting your hands like a 24 volt contractors drill would, or do they not quite work that way? I'm assuming they have some sort of air bypass or something? any good online references to using air tools?

[Jai SI]

I haven't had any problems with them. They usually just shoot out air if the bolt doesn't move. If it's too tight, they won't loosen and it'll just like...well it sounds like somebody hitting a hammer against metal or something. If it's getting tightened it'll stop at a certain point torque setting and do that as well.

[HONDA GHANDI]

My electric 3/8 impact was about $220 with battery and charger.
its about 4 years old now though and getting worn out. There is a new one that is 18.8 volts and can take off lug nuts quite easily. I will probably end up getting that one for use at work and at the track. i thinkits closer to $340 though.

[exciv2000]

Originally posted by Jai SI
I haven't had any problems with them. They usually just shoot out air if the bolt doesn't move. If it's too tight, they won't loosen and it'll just like...well it sounds like somebody hitting a hammer against metal or something. If it's getting tightened it'll stop at a certain point torque setting and do that as well.

That's kindof what I thought, just wanted to make sure tho before I go messin' around :)

[HONDA GHANDI]

Timing belts are not that hard but if not done correctly can be costly. I think the hardest Honda t belt is proabably the Acura Legend. If you have a book in front of you and the right tools it shouldnt be a problem. Of course if you dont want to spend a weekend doing one you can bring it to me and I can get er done for you in a couple of hours. ;)

[HONDA GHANDI]

Here Isiah, THIS (http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?tool=power&item%5FID=7648&group%5FID=916&group%5Fname=9%2E6+Volt+Impact+Wrenches+%283%2F8%2 2+Drive%29&sub%5Fcat%5FID=1366299&sub%5Fcat%5Fname=Impact+Wrenches&cat%5FID=1366298&cat%5Fname=Power+Tools%2C+Cordless&store=snapon%2Dstore&dir=catalog) is what I have now.

[Jai SI]

Yeah timing belts are easy...and yeah can be costly if you mess up, my words of advice, don't do it yourself if you don't think you know how, or have somebody who knows how with you.

[exciv2000]

Originally posted by Jai SI
Yeah timing belts are easy...and yeah can be costly if you mess up, my words of advice, don't do it yourself if you don't think you know how, or have somebody who knows how with you.

Eh, if that's directed at me, I wasn't planning on doing my own timing belt :) I was actually talking about the SC/alternator belt for the most part... I don't need to take the crank off for that, but was just curious if I could with the air compressor I am getting, but I guess that depends more on the actual air tool I use eh?

[Jai SI]

No no, it wasn't directed towards anybody. Well, just for people who don't know too much about it, but wanna save money as well. I say spend the money, or get somebody to help, rather than pay more in the end.

[Maverick]

I am probably going to get a corded electric impact...............they are in my price range for right now. In the future I will probably get an air compressor and tools...........but thats a ways down the line.

[exciv2000]

Actually the compressor is $250 + tax, and I found a air tool set at Sam's club for less than $70, and I'm not paying for it so I figured I might as well get it, although I probably won't use it much.

[HONDA GHANDI]

You guys would shit your pants if you knew how much I have invested in tools. It is my livelyhood so its a litte different scenario.

[Jai SI]

Originally posted by HONDA GHANDI
You guys would shit your pants if you knew how much I have invested in tools. It is my livelyhood so its a litte different scenario.

I have a dream of being able to say that someday... Well I got like 40 little rods and stuff for my dent business that cost nearly 4 grand... But the hand tools, compressors, and the things you hardly use, but want to have and other crap like that is what I want.

[Pang]

do those eletric impacts actually work as good as the air ones?

[HONDA GHANDI]

Not for tough stuff but they are very handy for normal jobs like plugs, valve cover nuts, anthing on the interior they are great for because you dont have to drag a dirty air hose through the car.

[Jai SI]

I usually go after things with just a ratchet and socket, until I get to the big one's then I'll break out the air tools.

[AcuraBro]

Electric Impact Driver won't take off a crank bolt. The best way to do it w/o expensive air tools:

Get a 12-18 in length of nylon rope from home depot (the kind that feels like its made of plastic) and take your #1 spark plug out. Rotate that piston to bottom dead center and feed the rope into the hole, be sure to get a good length of rope in there, then rotate the crank so the piston starts going back up again. Keep rotating the crank until it won't turn anymore. If it keeps turning, there isn't enough rope in the combustion chamber, get more in there. Eventually, this will make it so the crank stops rotating, and then get a 19mm socket w/ a long-ass extention on a 1/2 drive socket wrench. Get a friend to hold the wrench in place and get a very large breaker bar (pipe) to stick on the end of the wrench, and loosen away. This is how I do timing belts.

[Jai SI]

Sounds kinda like what I do. Like I said before, there's this chain tool thing that holds it, then I just take a breaker bar to it.

[Weston]

Isn't that bad for the engine or something?

What if I just put the car in gear and had someone step on the brakes hard? Wouldn't that keep the crank from turning so I could go at it with the breaker bar?

[HONDA GHANDI]

The clutch usually wont hold. There are sveral special tools available to make the job easier. none of them cheap as a peice of rope, but all of them easier and safer to use.

[Jai SI]

Originally posted by HONDA GHANDI
The clutch usually wont hold. There are sveral special tools available to make the job easier. none of them cheap as a peice of rope, but all of them easier and safer to use.

Like that chain that I got that goes for nearly 200 bucks haha. Does the job though.