95 Glant ES failed Emissions for NoX, Help?

[jackmode9316]

We have a 95 Mitsu Galant ES that failed emissions. The HC's are high, but it actually failed on NoX. The readings are as follows.

In GPM's
............. Reading .........Limit
HC GPM 1.6283 _____ 2.0000
CO GPM 8.2270 _____ 20.000
Co2 GPM 294.3862
NoX GPM 4.2726 _____ 4.0

What would cause high combustion pressure/temperature? What kind of things should I check on this motor? It has about 103,000 miles. New timing belt, water pump and all of that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as we are really short with cash so I would like to try and fix this myself if possible.
As always thanks in advance

[jackmode9316]

Just doing a little research, WIll changing the plugs and wires help?

I also read that de-carbonizing the internals would help. What is a good chemical to use to do this?

Could this possibly be a faulty Cat?

Does this thing even have a EGR?

[Denkigroove]

yes yes yes and it should.

i would run an injector cleaner, take your egr out and clean it by hand, and cats are easy to take off you might as well (i passed CO emissions with 1 high flow cat, the first is for cold starts, so with only 1 cat you should pass if your car is at 100%)

[Denkigroove]

exhaust places might check the cat for free, im sure you can find plenty of replacements on these forums since noone likes cats...... for some reason :) then its just 15$-20$ to weld new ones in

[jackmode9316]

Is this a good general list to go by?m Being that Im strapped on cash, I dont want to be purchasing things that won't help. Ohh and I forgot to mention that she DID NOT jump on the highway and romp it out before going to the emissions place....Even though I told her to.

This is a suggested order for NOx failure of things to check:
1. EGR System
2. O2 Sensor
3. Timing/Spark Advance
4. Catalytic Converter
5. Incorrect/faulty thermostat
6. Coolant Temp Sensor may be open
7. MAP Sensor
8. MAF Sensor
9. Other sensors/switchs (uhhh yeah, ok)
10. Fuel Injection System
11. Faulty On-Board COmputer
12. Computer PROM
13. Internal Engine Repair

High HC Failure:
1. Spark Plugs and Wires
2. Timing Spark Advance
3. Vacuum Leaks
4. Other Ignition Problems
5. O2 Sensor
6 Evaporative fuel system
7. Fuel Injection System
8. Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
9. PCV System
10. Catalytic Converter(s)
11. Throttle Position Sensor
12. MAP Sensor
13. MAF Sensor
14. Other Sensors/Switchs (dohh, again)
15. Computer PROM
16. Internal Engine Repair

High CO Failure In the case of carb engines, up to 85-86
1. Choke System
2. Carburetor Repair In the case of fuel injected engines, from 1986 on,
1. Fuel Injection System
2. Induction system problems
3. O2 Sensor
4. TPS
5. MAP
6. MAF
7. Coolant Temp Sensor may be closed
8. OTher sensors/switches (I guess this is a CYA thing (cover your ass)
9. Valve train problems
10.Jumped engine timing belt
Plus...
Idle speed adjustment
Air Filter Condition
Thermostatic Air Cleaner
Air Injection/Reaction System
EVAP fuel system
Oil and Filter Change
Catalytic Converter
Computer PROM

[hrcDSM719]

Changing the plugs (o.e. denso's or NGK's) and running some injector cleaner through it should help. Also try retarding the timing, if possible. Chances are, its detonating under load causing cylinder temperatures to rise. Also, running it with premium in the tank will cut down on detonation and give a little cleaner burn.

A good tune up before an emissions test is ALWAYS a good idea, or at least a general check of the condition of tune-up related parts. Best of luck to ya!

[HONDA GHANDI]

the HCs seem a bit high as well. I would look into a failing EGR, or too much spark advance (if its even adjustable on that car).

[Denkigroove]

Changing the plugs (o.e. denso's or NGK's) and running some injector cleaner through it should help. Also try retarding the timing, if possible. Chances are, its detonating under load causing cylinder temperatures to rise. Also, running it with premium in the tank will cut down on detonation and give a little cleaner burn.

A good tune up before an emissions test is ALWAYS a good idea, or at least a general check of the condition of tune-up related parts. Best of luck to ya!

yeah higher octane, this is actually why america has EGR systems and japan doesnt

[jackmode9316]

I believe timing is adjustable but I will have to look at the manual. I think I will try and Clean out the EGR by hand, Replace plugs, Run premium(she was using 85), Run some injector cleaner, Check/Retard timing, and I will make sure to run the shit of it on the highway first. I guess it will be a busy weekend for me.
Thanks Guys.

[hrcDSM719]

For sho...

[jackmode9316]

Do I just hit the EGR with some carb cleaner?

[hrcDSM719]

You can do it like that, or get a can of BG44k. It removes deposits throughout your enitre engine, mixes in with your fuel. Add it before you fill with gas, and drive around on it a bit. If your EGR is sticking open you would notice a rough idle, maybe even some "miss" type feelings while lightly accelerating.

[jackmode9316]

You can do it like that, or get a can of BG44k. It removes deposits throughout your enitre engine, mixes in with your fuel. Add it before you fill with gas, and drive around on it a bit. If your EGR is sticking open you would notice a rough idle, maybe even some "miss" type feelings while lightly accelerating.
Well it seems to run smooth actually, can I get this bg44k stuff from any old Parts store? I am going to check timing also.

Question though, apparently I have to have a jumper that needs to hook to a ground in order to set the timing correct. Will a paper clip work for this like they do on hondas?

[hrcDSM719]

You may be able to get it at parts stores, if not, they'd definately be able to tell you where to get it...
I PM'd you back about the timing...

[jackmode9316]

I went to set the timing this weekend and I cannot see the marks for TDC. All of the other pulleys and stuff were in the way of the top of the crankshaft. All I could see was the spot marked BDC. Whats the secret to actually being able to see the timing notches on the crank pulley? DO I have to maybe remove the driver side splash guard or something?

[hrcDSM719]

You've got PM Mike...

[hrcDSM719]

Heres the marks for the DOHC, and SOHC.

Spec is 5deg +/- 2deg. Hope that helps!

[jackmode9316]

Well that is the mark that I see, but I cannot see any other marks that say its aligned. The only time I can actually see a mark is if I retard the timing all the way(turn dizzy away from firewall) There doesnt seem to be any other markos on there. The mark that I do see is yellow and looks almost painted on there. Should there be a notch or something?

[hrcDSM719]

There should be a notch on the ridge of the cranks damper closest to the timing cover, and a mark on the timing cover that states T for TDC another one for 5deg, and one for 10deg(or more?). If your timing light isnt adjustable, it should be lining up with the middle mark,(5deg, or close to) once you have the connector grounded properly. If not, loosen the 12mm dizzy bolts and turn until it does line up, and that should be it. Now, if your timing light is adavanceable (that a word?) set it to +5, and that should have it lining up with the T, or close to. If not, lossen the dizzy bolts and turn it till they line up(connector grounded, of course.

Ive attached a diagram of the connector location, just to be sure you've got the right one. According to my manual, its a brown connector. (looks like you may have to insert a paperclip in the female side of the connector, both terminals, and then ground it. Apologies, its been a while since Ive worked on a Galant like yours...)