ITR or CTR

[b16efhatch]

What cams and pistons would be better for a mild all motor b18c build? Would there be much difference between the CTR and ITR cams and pistons? Im not looking for too much, just a little extra pep when I put this motor in my crx. thanks in advance.

[J.Dub]

i have heard a itr exhaust cam and CTR intake cam works good but idk i just heard that from this guy

[STIBungy]

Not really that noticeable of a gain up here at altitude. I had CTR cams in my GSR. Ear dyno says vtec was louder. It felt pretty good down at sea level. I believe the exhaust cams are the same between ITR and CTR.

[meat-market]

ctr pistons and nothing smaller than a skunk2 stage 2 cam (or something in that range), but you must upgrade your valve springs/retainers.. i run jun stage 3's with ctr pistons, and i must say.. it delivers nice power from idle to redline (9,015rpm's) (b18c1 with p&p b16 head and zex springs/retainers)

altitude sucks for any mild cam (all motor) setup, you wont see big gains like you would at sea level...

[Slava]

00-01 ITR cams and CTR cams are the same. The 97-99 ITR cams are milder.
If you CTR pistons have higher compression than ITR. If you use CTR pistons in a GSR block I'd say skunk2 stage 2 or Pro 1 cams atleast just because you will have the compression to support them.

[HONDA GHANDI]

If I were building and all motor B it would have CP or Wiseco pistons and crower or Skunk 2 cams in it. I wouldnt even bother with the ITR or CTR pistons.

[vince]

If I were building and all motor B it would have CP or Wiseco pistons and crower or Skunk 2 cams in it. I wouldnt even bother with the ITR or CTR pistons.

Why is that? i was thinking of doing the same type of thing, isnt it alot cheaper to stick with the itr or ctr parts. And if you had to stick with those parts what would you do?

[HONDA GHANDI]

Its not actually cheaper.

If I had to stick with those parts for some reason I would probably do the ITR. The CTR stuff is sometimes hard to come by, and can be overpriced by some vendors. IMHO its not really worth spending the money on here at this altitude. If you are building an NA car here and want it to make good power, be reliable you may as well spend money on better parts than the OEM. They are still cast pistons, and you are stuck with one CR.

[meat-market]

i paid 150 shipped for my oem ctr pistons.. 92 for machine work to have them pressed on gsr rods (and have them resized in case arp rod bolts made the rod bearing journals out of round), and around 55-60 for rod bolt upgrade..
i went the forged bottom end route with my last (all motor) build, and it happily crapped out at 6k miles... (shat a wrist pin for no reason)
i am hoping for better luck with the oem bottom end,... with arp rod bolt upgrade..

[HONDA GHANDI]

I have forged builds out there boosted and NA with will over 80K miles on them with no issues. Dumping a wrist pin on a full floating pin setup sounds like an assembly error. Were the rods stock or forged also?

[b16efhatch]

Sounds like its gonna be better to just go ahead and boost it. Might be easier.

[meat-market]

I have forged builds out there boosted and NA with will over 80K miles on them with no issues. Dumping a wrist pin on a full floating pin setup sounds like an assembly error. Were the rods stock or forged also?

scat rods (forged), probe pistons.. there have been alot of documented probe wristpin failures for no reason... the entire rotating assembly was balanced and blueprinted.. there is a pic of the carnage in the tech forum...http://www.highaltitudeimports.com/t48749-here-is-why-u-dont-use-probe-industries-products.html also assembled by one of the best machinist's in the cincinnati area....
probe industries denies the failures, but i know of 6 and counting...

[HONDA GHANDI]

Aha. Yeah i Have head a lot of issues with quality control on Probe's wrist pins. That sucks man.