Those with experience with gauges/sensors/EMS wiring

[Aracheon]

I'm on quite a waiting list to get the rest of my engine work done, so I'm going to begin work on the interior electronics for the GT-Four.

I've chosen to go with a Defi setup for my gauges, simply because I like the idea of daisy chaining and having all the sensor wiring run to a central place, rather than a mess of wires running every which way. To those of you who have done gauge / sensor / EMS wiring before, do you have any general suggestions / shoulda-dones?

FWIW.. the entire interior is stripped, minus the dash and the HVAC system (which are relatively easy to work and get around).

[Conrad]

Chris you should talk to Erik(monicle) he has the defi setup too with all the sensors and the data logger. I know he did a good job.

[Aracheon]

I don't see him post here much anymore...

[monicle]

Im still around from time to time. heh.

[Slow96GSR]

Advice:
-Solder, don't use crimp connectors.
-Heat shrink tube the connections.
-Use around 14awg wire
-And most of all, read the instructions

[transaxion]

I shoulda gone with defi's in the beginning like you are.

[HONDA GHANDI]

Advice:
-Solder, don't use crimp connectors.
-Heat shrink tube the connections.
-Use around 14awg wire
-And most of all, read the instructions

Solder is not always the best solution. Especially under the hood where there is a lot of vibration. Soldering flexible copper wire in a vibration abundant environment may cause them to become brittle and break over time. The weight of the solder on the joint can absorb vibration causing small cracks in the copper wire. I use an un shielded copper crimp connector and a special tool that crimps them evenly in a long U shape instead of a pointed area. Then I seal them with shring tubing that has a heat activaded sealant indside of it that makes the joint waterproof when heated. I have NEVER had a failure of a crimp connection using this method. I have enven strength tested this method and had the wire break before the crimp would. It also helps if the wire is a bit too small for the crimp connector to twist it and fold it over once.

[fusionsport]

^^^^ effin werd!

Solder is not used by any major auto manufacturer for vehicle wiring and that should be a sign right there. The FAA doesnt allow solder in airframe wiring, and this also should be a sign. Proper crimp connectors, not those you buy from the parts store but non-insulated high temperature connectors will work perfectly.

[HONDA GHANDI]

I just did a mini lab test in the shop. The results even shocked me. I took 6 pieces of wire all from the same roll, all identical in length. I measured the resistance of each wire and labeled them individually. Cut them in the center and connected them 6 different ways:
Solder
High temp crimp with correct tool
High temp Crimp with incorrect tool
Pink heatshrink crimp with correct tool
Blue butt connector with correct tool
Twist and tape
All of them carried the same resistance as the beginning of the test. (suprisingly)
Stress tested the entire bunch by tying off one end and pulling the other until the wire broke. The Solder broke at the edge of the solder joint, wire failed. The high temp crimp (correct tool ) failed at the wire end of the tie off area meaning with a really hard pull leading me to beleive the crimp is stronger than the wire. High temp crimp with the incorrect tool failed at the crimp with little effort, it popped right out. Same with the blue butt connector version. The pink heat shrink connector unit also did well, it failed at the wire just short of the crimp causing a massive wire and insulation failure reaching into the crimp. Of course the twist and tape did not do well, it was more of a control group anyway. So, there it is. A good crimping tool and the correct crimp connectors with good insulation will be more than enough for an automotive application.

On a side note, you should not have more than one or two crimp connections on a wire anyway. If you CAN use one piece of wire from point A to B, then by all means DO.

[monicle]

if you do go the defi route like i did there will be no need solder or crimp anything related to the gauges or sensors themselves. only power, ground, illumination and whatnot wires for the link controller. everything else is fed by the controller. makes installing a new gauge as easy as simply connecting it to the gauge next to it. Defi is expensive but I stand by my decision to go with them. Im thinking about buying an amber face boost gauge when I go back to japan though in may. If anyone is interested in a black face white illuminated defi link boost gauge let me know. I might be selling mine here in a few months.
http://repo.jackmoves.com/d/10122-2/SANY0381.jpg
http://repo.jackmoves.com/d/10374-2/SANY0462.jpg

[D16crx]

I need some Held with my 87 crx hf .. I'm trying to put a D16 in to it.. Having alot of trouble with the wire harnes. need tips on my spools and axles

[Aracheon]

Go make your own stupid thread with your own stupid questions. Quit whoring mine, retard.

[D16crx]

sorry man didn't know how this whole thing worked ..

[john]

My one suggestion is to solder & shrinkwrap everything. Don't use crimp connectors / vampire taps.

[rmcdaniels]

Wire nuts FTW!

The only really bad connections I've seen have been from cheap crimp connections, which uniformly suck.

Tobi has a good point about soldered wires and vibration, if you flex a soldered joint of stranded wire, then the strands will start breaking, but I've made good soldered connections before, I just had to use heat shrink, usually two layers of it, to the point where the joint can't move at all.

And seriously, I use small wire nuts a lot, twist the wires together, twist the nut on them, and dab a little blob pf ScotchKote in the wire nut to seal the connection.