where to buy engine internals?

[wild.irish]

where do you guys buy performance engine internals, like pistons, rods, valves, etc. for honda engines? i'm looking for a good price/quality and also guess that buying from one place saves on shipping. any ideas?

[STIBungy]

I've been looking on h-t. Plus I have connections to hasport and hybridgarage. What are you looking for?

[wild.irish]

What are you looking for?
pistons, piston rods, piston rings, valves, i guess valve springs too, injectors, and fuel pump. this is what i know for sure. i'm pretty much in investigation stage now, but i already wanted to get an idea what's the price for this on the average.

h-t as in honda-tech?

[STIBungy]

Yeah.

[rmcdaniels]

http://www.raceeng.com/

These guys seem to know what they are talking about.

[wild.irish]

that's a very nice selection they have. thanks!
but boy, am i looking at some big bucks to spend... i kinda didn't realise that ;)

[rmcdaniels]

The good stuff always costs more, but I've found that it generally pays for itself later.

[wild.irish]

i agree completely. i wasn't looking for cheap stuff. it's just some sort of an eye-opener - words about horsepower not coming at a cheap price start to mean something to me ;)

[ryanman]

You get what you pay for.

[blackciv4]

Hey I buy everything from this guy Greg at Technospeed. He has awsome prices and can usually have anything in like 3 days. His # is (303) 916-3848 give him a call.

[rmcdaniels]

i agree completely. i wasn't looking for cheap stuff. it's just some sort of an eye-opener - words about horsepower not coming at a cheap price start to mean something to me ;)

Also make sure that the people you buy from know what they are talking about. It will help a lot getting stuff that will work together and is appropriate for your goals.

[hsunchen]

Hey I buy everything from this guy Greg at Technospeed. He has awsome prices and can usually have anything in like 3 days. His # is (303) 916-3848 give him a call.

Greg is a good guy and has helped me to get a lot of stuff over the years, even weird special order stuff like a Greddy head gasket for a D-series application.

Never ordered engine internals from him though . . .

[floored4door]

3rdly I support Greg. Just about everything on my car is from him. He can do whatever you want. PM'd.

[wild.irish]

thanks guys, I got an email from Greg with prices on stuff i wanted. looks not overpriced, and he made a nice touch of putting part brand and short descriptions to my otherwise generic list of parts. I'm not ready to order something from him just yet (EDIT: not ready to order from anybody actually, just fixing up the budget) , but I sure liked the first contact we made.
thanks again!

[doctorstupid]

at first glance the cost of top of the line internals can be quite a shocker, i know this all too well ;)

[rmcdaniels]

So what stuff are you looking at?

[wild.irish]

pretty much everything besides the crankshaft and block itself. everything that's prone to breaking under boost. pistons, rods, valves... now i know the prices, i'd be starting to make a priority list, and see what i can do right away, and what i can do without. I'm still somewhat not sure if i want to boost my f22b2, cause it's got way too many miles on it.. but this is cheaper than an h22 swap.. so i'm investigating

[rmcdaniels]

Have you figured out what you want static and effective compression to be?

[wild.irish]

oh, gm.. my automotive dictionary doesn't have that, hehe ;)
and i didn't yet read alot about compression on the web. can you tell me the difference between static and effective in two words?

[rmcdaniels]

Static = non-boosted
effective = ((boost psi / 14.7) + 1) x static compression

My understanding is that you don't want to exceed 20:1 effective compression on US pump gas, or detonation becomes unavoidable. So if you use high compression pistons, then you can't use as much boost and vice versa. It's a balancing act. I'm new at this, so I'm curious to see what everyone else is doing.

[wild.irish]

thanks for info! i need to read more on this. I'm also just starting getting deep into it, though I do have automotive education background. but that was ages ago, at the dark ages of N/A carburator cars. So many things i learn now for the first time.

Yes, I don't want to go beyond 20:1, i wanted to make it around 6-7psi daily, and up to 15 on the track. but that "plan" is based on what i hear other people are using and some common sence. I bet i need to read more on this, before i make a descision. I can keep you posted as to what I'm coming up with :)

[rmcdaniels]

Are you thinking about sleeving it?

[wild.irish]

i actually didn't, because i was told that F22 block is rather robust. more thick walls than H22. i might be wrong, this is all a word of mouth, and i don't have numbers to prove it. do you think it's worth it?

[rmcdaniels]

I don't know about the F22. I had my B16 sleeved, but the original cylinders were way out of round.

[wild.irish]

you got a point there, i didn't think about it. most probably at 200+k miles they'd be not round. taking into consideration my constant engine braking also... i'll have to measure them once i get to the disassemble point

[rmcdaniels]

I got a little dial micrometer at Napa that I could drop in the cylinder and move around inside to measure it. It was very expensive, but I think worth it because I could see how oval they were at different points up and down the length of the cylinder. I don't know if normal wear will get them oval, mine had been detonating due to insufficient fuel under boost.

[doctorstupid]

thanks for info! i need to read more on this. I'm also just starting getting deep into it, though I do have automotive education background. but that was ages ago, at the dark ages of N/A carburator cars. So many things i learn now for the first time.

Yes, I don't want to go beyond 20:1, i wanted to make it around 6-7psi daily, and up to 15 on the track. but that "plan" is based on what i hear other people are using and some common sence. I bet i need to read more on this, before i make a descision. I can keep you posted as to what I'm coming up with :)
why not lower compression and go higher? 6-7psi, even 15psi at the track, is nothing. i mean it hardly justifies having the turbo itself ;)

[rmcdaniels]

why not lower compression and go higher? 6-7psi, even 15psi at the track, is nothing. i mean it hardly justifies having the turbo itself ;)

That's the balancing act. Lower compression means less off-boost performance, but the ability to handle more boost. Higher compression means better off-boost performance and less work for the turbo or SC, but less boost up top. Here's a pretty good article:

http://www.motorsportsdigest.com/forced2.htm

That's' why I asked about the effective compression, you always want to get it as high as you safely can, but how do you get there, high boost/low compression or low boost/high compression?

[doctorstupid]

you're absolutely right that it is a balancing act, but more boost on lower static compression will *always* yield higher power levels just because you can cram more air/fuel in the cylinders safely. and a well matched turbo will spool fast enough to where off-boost performance isn't much of an issue.

i raised my compression (stock 8:1) to 8.5:1 for the road course. so it really depends on your application as well. :)

[rmcdaniels]

Wow, 8:1 stock compression, no wonder you can run so much boost on Mitsubishis. Mine's at 8.4:1 now, which is pretty low for a Honda. When I get my Safeguard installed I plan on running 20 lbs. I actually wanted my engine built for 10:1 and was going to run less boost off of a Roots blower, but there was a communication breakdown between me and my engine builder, so now I get more power later vice less power sooner. Not so good for autox, but a hell of a lot of fun.

[wild.irish]

my stock compression is 8.8:1 (just found specs)
it's getting more interesting with each post. Thanks for the link to the article, there's plenty of other articles too, something to do tomorrow.

[doctorstupid]

8.8:1 should give you plenty of off-boost power with a fair amount of room for the fun stuff. i would personally go down to 8.5:1, the off-boost it'll be a little less power than a stock motor. as long as you carefully select your turbo, you should be very happy with the general performance of the engine :)

[rmcdaniels]

I've got the turbo off of mine now and it's relatively sluggish, but it does go like crazy when I put 18-20 lbs of boost to it.

[doctorstupid]

it only feels sluggish because you know the boost is on its way ;)

[rmcdaniels]

True, it could just be a relative thing, and maybe my car was this slow before I boosted it, but since I sent my turbo off for repair my car feels like my old diesel Isuzu pickup.