Engine management???

[powder311]

Okay.. I am only asking because in the future my car is going to need some type of engine / fuel management (next mod planned), and I need to start shopping... What is a good computer or any type of fuel/engine mangagement for my setup? I have a b18c1 boosted w/ a built bottom end clutch and turbo timer and boost controller.... Just looking for ideas and seeing if anyone on here (honda ghandi) can do it.. I am thinking of going w/ a VAFC but I am also thinking that I can go further for about 500 bucks more.. My goal is to have a street legal 12 second (high 12's are fine) GSR (on slicks) w/ a track setup and a street setup that are both easy to toggle between... The car runs 13,s as is.. hondata, aem, apexi.. Any ideas or input is welcome.. Thanks!

[ryanman]

I'd say use the tried and true Hondata.

[powder311]

I'd say use the tried and true Hondata.My only problem with hondata is tunability.. I'm no mechaninc... Wouldn't the AFC allow me to make changes say at a light as opposed to having to hook my car up to all sorts of shiz and tune it from there? Just wondering...

[CT9A]

The AFC does make it easy to change your settings. Since it sounds like you need someone to tune your car for you anyway, I would get the stand alone. Unless you know what you're doing, I wouldn't mess with the fuel settings too much on an AFC, or anything else for that matter.

[stu]

Sure you change the settings by yourself with the AFC, but any tuned hondata set-up will be better than any adjustment you could make at a light.

[Weston]

Yeah, there's really not much use for stoplight adjustibility. You need to do your tuning with a wideband on a dyno (you need the load). If you don't, then it's just guessing, and that's a pretty bad idea when it comes to important things like this.

The only time I've ever changed my AFC since it was tuned was to lean it out temporarily for emissions, but I think it would have passed if I didn't. Either way, now I'm good for another 2 years, so I'm really not seeing the need or use for on-the-fly adjustability.

[HONDA GHANDI]

As these guys said already "street" tuning has its place but its not somthing that is needed after the car has been fully tuned already. Hondata can be tuned with a few hours on the dyno and wont need to be touched again unless you make changes to the setup. (more boost, upgraded turbo etc.) Your car could really use a Hondata S200B. It wouldnt be the first 12 second car in CO with hondata under the carpet either. Ask 00ITR#700.

Do you know what ECU you have now? If its a P72 you are looking at about $570 for everything you would need to get started. Click www.hondata.com for prices of options too.

[rmcdaniels]

I got the S200 and have been very happy with it. It easily handles any setup I want to run. If you get a good tuner your car should run well and you won't need to mess with it unless you make changes to the engine. Before I got my new engine I had it tuned with four cracked pistons and rings (compression way off, 25% leakdown, oval cylinders, burning 1+ quart every 100 miles), and it ran pretty well (sometimes died at idle, other than that ran well) while making over 200 HP at the wheels -w- 10 lbs of boost from a JRSC. I drove it like that for thousands of miles before I got the money together for the engine.

[phil]

As these guys said already "street" tuning has its place but its not somthing that is needed after the car has been fully tuned already. Hondata can be tuned with a few hours on the dyno and wont need to be touched again unless you make changes to the setup. (more boost, upgraded turbo etc.) Your car could really use a Hondata S200B. It wouldnt be the first 12 second car in CO with hondata under the carpet either. Ask 00ITR#700.

Do you know what ECU you have now? If its a P72 you are looking at about $570 for everything you would need to get started. Click www.hondata.com for prices of options too.

Tobi, I was wondering if someone is using a stand alone like hondata or the aem system, would be able to switch boost settings on the fly? The main reason is because I would like to do a setup where for daily driving i would run a low boost setting, and when i go to the track i can go to a higher boost setting. Basically for fuel economy and reliability. (depending on track i have a 20 - 30 minute commute everday)

[rmcdaniels]

I got a dual stage boost controller from http://www.dawesdevices.com . That will give me two adjustable levels of boost that I can switch between. The Hondata system doesn't care which level of boost I am using, I just have to run them both when getting it tuned so it knows what fuel/timing to use at what boost level. The Hondata system reads boost through my MAP sensor, so I don't have to tell it when I switch to high boost, it already knows. Then you can just flip a switch to change your boost controller setting and go.

[stu]

Tobi has been saying this a lot, but what you do is just tune for the higher boost setting, then just run the low setting most of the time. Since it's tuned for higher boost, it will essentially already be tuned for the lower seting.

[HONDA GHANDI]

Yup, I just tuned a car yesterday that I had tuned for low boost before. I had already built in a higher boost setting into the hondata program. When we made the switch to high boost all it needed was a litlle tweak and it was done. Now the car can go from low to high with only a twist of the boost controller.

[rmcdaniels]

Hey Tobi, kind of off topic, but I was wondering....

Since I removed my JRSC my car runs, but runs like crap (goes lean and tries to die) any time I give it enough throttle to the point where it would have engaged the SC. I called my tuner about it and he said that it didn't have the information in the ECU for what to do under those conditions with no boost. If it can interpolate what do to at higher or lower boost levels than it was programmed for, why can't it figure out what to do with no boost?

[stu]

Powder, you're not really going to drive your car with no fuel management are you? Because you do realize that's why it blew up in the first place right? No after market pistons and rods can save you from blowing a motor that has NO fuel set-up at all.

[rmcdaniels]

It looks like he's got a FMU. I thought that would keep him alive a low boost (around 6 lbs). I wouldn't use it for more than that, or more accurately I wouldn't use it AGAIN for more than that on my new engine, it costs too much to rebuild a blown up engine every month or two, plus my wife has told me I'm not allowed to blow up any more engines.

[ryanman]

plus my wife has told me I'm not allowed to blow up any more engines.
:rofl: :rofl:

[powder311]

Yup, I just tuned a car yesterday that I had tuned for low boost before. I had already built in a higher boost setting into the hondata program. When we made the switch to high boost all it needed was a litlle tweak and it was done. Now the car can go from low to high with only a twist of the boost controller.:werd: Thats exactly what I am looking for.. I want to be able to crank the boost for a race and tone it down once im done.. that sounds just like what i'm looking for.. Also I have no clue on the p72 or what it is.. It's a 95 GSR whatever those have (unless the guy b4 me did something to it)... Ryanman... As far as running the car w/out fuel management yes.. for now... only low boost though until I do get it figured out... For now it has an FMU and I am only running 4 lbs of boost w/ my boost controller off.... 570 sounds like a great price.. I need to find some money now :)

[HONDA GHANDI]

Hey Tobi, kind of off topic, but I was wondering....

Since I removed my JRSC my car runs, but runs like crap (goes lean and tries to die) any time I give it enough throttle to the point where it would have engaged the SC. I called my tuner about it and he said that it didn't have the information in the ECU for what to do under those conditions with no boost. If it can interpolate what do to at higher or lower boost levels than it was programmed for, why can't it figure out what to do with no boost?


Most likely because your program was setup to anticipate the vac/boost changeover for a smooth transition. Now there is no boost transition. You also have to figure in that you have drastically changed your VE even under no boost situations with the manifold that you have. This means its time to go tune again. Anytime you change the VE a few % your previous setup will not run like it was designed.

[rmcdaniels]

Most likely because your program was setup to anticipate the vac/boost changeover for a smooth transition. Now there is no boost transition. You also have to figure in that you have drastically changed your VE even under no boost situations with the manifold that you have. This means its time to go tune again. Anytime you change the VE a few % your previous setup will not run like it was designed.

That's true, when I got my new engine and exhaust my fuel maps were all choppy when I went to get it tuned, even though I was using the same intake/injector setup. I'll start the turbo install next week, so I made an appointment for next Friday for tuning. Until then I'll just keep my fooot out of it.

[rmcdaniels]

:rofl: :rofl:

Seriously, she said she'd make me buy a Ford Taurus if I blow it up again. I think she would. Wouldn't that be fun at autox! I bet I'd be the only Taurus there.

[Toyz51]

Like everyone said, Hondata, EMS, or another similar system would definitly be the way to go, with an AFC, you can't adjust your timing to your setup which is critical to a good tune on high boost.

[Blackice]

well i have a ACCEL DFI 7 pro that im installing for my MR2(with a wideband o2) but i dont know if you looking at paying out 2700-2800$ for one. i would also look into tec3 and motec. and bet AEM has a plug and play out for your car also.