sputtering above 3k

[cherrybombcivic]

ok i got my exhaust put on today, hooked up the o2 sensor, and decided to take it past 3k rpm for the first time. right past 3k it sputters like crazy. im still throwing codes, but i havent pulled them yet. my guess is maybe still the o2, and i know th EGR will throw a code cuz its not hooked up. i have an included a vid so you get a better idea of whats goin on.

Right click and save as... (http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMjU1NzkyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D)

thanks in advance once again....

[stu]

That's weird.

[john]

Hmm. Are you boosted?

[stu]

Nope, LS/Vtec.

[john]

What RPM does vtec want to engage at? Is your ignition up to snuff? Plugs? Wires?

[cherrybombcivic]

plugs might be fouled due to running so rich for a few days when i first started her up. but i think i would be missing all over the place if it was that, not just above 3k. VTEC isnt set to come on until 4800 RPM, and i did ignition timing before i did a valve adjustment. should i go back and re-do the ignition timing? im thinking one of the codes im throwing is putting me into sort of "limp mode" with maybe a 3k rev limiter... i dunno...

[HONDA GHANDI]

SOunds like it is in limp mode. First thing you need to do is troubleshoot those codes. Thats what they are there for.

[cherrybombcivic]

ok, tried to pull the codes today but nothing. i did it just like the honda service manual says. I have some pics, as well...

http://members.aol.com/captainme/ecupin1.jpg

http://members.aol.com/captainme/ecupin2.jpg

well, when i turn the key in the "on" position, nothing. The check engine light comes on, but no blinking or anything. what am i doing wrong? i already reset the ECU, i cant think of anything else.

[ricewizard]

if you reset the ecu you cleared the code/s drive it till it comes back on . also should be a test connector you need to jump to get light to flash

[ryanman]

IF the plugs are fouled it MAY still run at idle but when you hit the gas and try for more it'll just die. I'd suggest checking them.

[cherrybombcivic]

i did jump the connector, but still the CEL doesnt flash. it just stays lit up....

[exciv2000]

I've had that problem before... make sure that your paperclip is securely attached to the metal connectors in the jumper... if they are not touching, the CEL will stay lit and not flash.

[cherrybombcivic]

ill give it another shot, thanks scott.

[HONDA GHANDI]

Question? does the engine still sputter at 3k when just free revvingit on nuetral?
If so probably not the plugs or wires.

If you clear the code does the CEL come back immediatly after turning on the key?

Still no code?

[cherrybombcivic]

but it does look like im on the right one and all right?

[HONDA GHANDI]

Oh and another question, why the fuck are you using a P08 ECU? ;NutKick;

[cherrybombcivic]

im gonna go outside right now and rev it in neutral and ill tell you what happens, but yes, after i reset the ECU, the light comes back on right after i turn the key....

[cherrybombcivic]

because i got a good deal on it. take it easy on a youngster, you damn geriatric.

[cherrybombcivic]

ok yea, it wont go past 3k....

[ryanman]

Does it sound like a rev limiter or it just bogs down?

[cherrybombcivic]

it sounds like a rev limiter... theres a video of how it sounds on page one of this thread....

[ryanman]

Do the automatic hondas have a built in rev limiter for when they're in Park or neutral? If so is this ECU from an auto car?

[HONDA GHANDI]

1. I think you need to ditch that ECU.
2. I think your problem is the ECU. If you jump the connector and it stays on solid, then it is an internal power supply failure onthe ECU.

Borrow a P28 from somebody and give it a try.

[cherrybombcivic]

ill look into getting a p28, but what about for now, am i hurting anything by running in "limp mode" ?

[cherrybombcivic]

hey i just thought of something... should i hook the stock ecu back up and see if i can pull codes from that one?

[cherrybombcivic]

ok i hooked the stock ECU back up and it worked just fine. : / i got a code 6 and a code 10, if im reading it right. which would be ECT (water temp sensor) and the IAT (intake air temp sensor). Now i extended my IAT sensor cuz it sits on the top of this manifold and not the back, maybe one of the solders came loose. that could be the reason for that one. As far as the ECT, thats the thermoswitch right? Since my block is an obd0 (b18a1) it had the thermoswitch right by the oil filter but i bought a new theromostat housing with the thermoswitch on it so i wouldnt have to extend my civics harness.... If i have the thermoswitch on the thermostat housing plugged in, not having the one on the back of the block plugged in shouldnt throw a code, should it?

[exciv2000]

I can tell you the IAT won't limp mode the car, not sure about the ECT tho.

[HONDA GHANDI]

ECT wont either. Its not the the thermo switch either, its the two wire sensor in the head under the distributor. The thermo switch just turns the fan on.

[cherrybombcivic]

ok, i cleared code 6, but code 10 persists. Im STILL bogging over 3k. Im gonna get a fresh set of plugs and hope for the best. Thanks for the help guys. I really do appreciate it.

[HONDA GHANDI]

Are the plug wires cleaned out of all the oil that you had with the other problem?

Sometimes if the wires are wet with oil they will conduct making spark go bye bye.

[alonnzo007]

Quick tip! Run your car until your check engine light comes on then park it (with out shuting her off) then put the jumper on, you should now see your check engine light flashing the codes.

You will probably get a code on your intake and exhaust. Good Luck

[HONDA GHANDI]

exactly what is an intake and exhaust code?

[alonnzo007]

I don't about your manual but somewhere in there a list of codes should be printed. If you were to get a code (example exhaust.... Which tells you that there is a problem with the O2 sensor, cat, exhaust leak or fuel management)

If you were to recieve an intake code (by the book an oxygen code) then you know to start looking at throttle adjustments, intake bypass solenoid (depending on model), or some type of air leak at the throttle body or intake manifold.

Hope this helps.......Good Luck!