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View Full Version : I got tuns of questions


TDR Prez
01-24-2004, 05:42 PM
Hello everyone,

I just joined and I am looking for some feedback.

I have a 2000 Civic HB DX and I read an article in PAS 'burnout: about a frakenstein engine they made out of a B16 head and a B18 motor. I am looking for some more info on where to buy the components I need at a Reasonable price.

I am also looking to tune the stock engine I have until I can afford to do the swap. So far I have a C/A intake and a cat back Fire ball exhaust.

Any suggestions????

And by the way if you read my profile andare wondering what TDR is... It's a club I am trying to start.

STIBungy
01-24-2004, 05:48 PM
Do a search on honda-tech.com for ls vtec. Essentially, what it is is they take the non-vtec integra bottom end and slap on a vtec head. Of course, there are caveats to doing this.

rmcdaniels
01-24-2004, 10:23 PM
You may want to read up on them caveats before you make that investment.

rmcdaniels
01-24-2004, 10:26 PM
If you're doing a swap, why not start on the suspension and brakes until you get your motor?

TDR Prez
01-26-2004, 08:26 PM
Thanks guys, P.S what is a caveat????

djet820
01-26-2004, 08:29 PM
You'll need to do a pretty good amount of work for the head swap. It's call an ls/vtec. Build up your internals and so on. Ask cherrybombcivic, he did his.

exciv2000
01-26-2004, 09:27 PM
www.dictionary.com is your friend ;)

STIBungy
01-26-2004, 09:28 PM
I was gonna suggest that too but forgot how to spell dickshunarry J/K

rmcdaniels
01-26-2004, 09:47 PM
Thanks guys, P.S what is a caveat????


In this case a caveat is a qualification. I looked hard at building LS/VTEC for my new motor, but what I found was that there are a lot of ways to screw it up and most people seemed to disagree on how to build the motor so it will be reliable. Definitely find some people who have done it and gotten a good reliable motor when they were done so you can find out what they did. I heard about different issues with oiling, the internals, and with revving them too high causing problems (I can go into crankshaft geometry if you like, but suffice to say there is a good reason you can rev a B16 higher than a LS/VTEC). It was just too much money for me to spend to do it right and not be sure I was getting something solid. I just didn't get the feel that it was something you could do on the cheap and come away with a reliable motor, and If I was going to have to spend serious money, I could just get my B16 built and make as much power as I want. Plus there are any number of shops that can build you a very reliable B16 that you can make a lot of power with, while I didn't find as many who would build a LS/VTEC and stand behind it. Have you thought of doing a B16 swap (I've seen them for <$1000) and saving up for a re-sleeve/rods/pistons/etc?

TDR Prez
01-26-2004, 11:42 PM
In this case a caveat is a qualification. I looked hard at building LS/VTEC for my new motor, but what I found was that there are a lot of ways to screw it up and most people seemed to disagree on how to build the motor so it will be reliable. Definitely find some people who have done it and gotten a good reliable motor when they were done so you can find out what they did. I heard about different issues with oiling, the internals, and with revving them too high causing problems (I can go into crankshaft geometry if you like, but suffice to say there is a good reason you can rev a B16 higher than a LS/VTEC). It was just too much money for me to spend to do it right and not be sure I was getting something solid. I just didn't get the feel that it was something you could do on the cheap and come away with a reliable motor, and If I was going to have to spend serious money, I could just get my B16 built and make as much power as I want. Plus there are any number of shops that can build you a very reliable B16 that you can make a lot of power with, while I didn't find as many who would build a LS/VTEC and stand behind it. Have you thought of doing a B16 swap (I've seen them for <$1000) and saving up for a re-sleeve/rods/pistons/etc?


I have thought of just working on a B16. There are a couple of pressing issues that arise

A) I'am from Canada and Ive never seen an engine for less then 2500.00
B) we don't have any mechs on the west coast that I feel know what they are doing and so and I am back at the start.

So I religiously read Import mags, and in one of the articles they talked about what they called the "Frankeinstein engine" and to say the least I was aroused.....Big time.

As for moding the B16 bolt ons and various other i.e sleeve/rods/pistons, my issue is the cost of them versus the outcome is my big delema. Do I want to put a Turbo charger and Intercooler system on it? 3500.00$ at least.

Then there is aluminum crankshafts, connecting rod, engine balancing, strut bars, sway bars, performance battery, and so on and so on.

I don't make ten G's a month and as of now I don't get any amazing deals on goods, so I just don't know what to do.

BOOHOO poor me I'm so hard done by, sniff sniff.
Sorry guys I needed to vent,

thanks for the responses.

stu
01-26-2004, 11:54 PM
The cheapest and most reliable way to make power is turbo really.

rmcdaniels
01-27-2004, 08:21 AM
This guy is in Canada. He imports JDM stuff directly and has offered me some pretty good prices on B-series stuff. I haven't actually gotten anything from him yet so I can't speakfor the quality of his products,but he does seem like a nice guy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2456065086


Stu has a good point too. Check out

http://streetjdm.netfirms.com/Project%20Budget%20Boost.htm

I think this would be the cheapest way to give your car some extra punch. Get a nice small turbo that will spool up quickly and that could be a lot of fun on the street. Plus if you keep the boost around 6 lbs, it should be easy enough to avoid detonation with just the FMU. In retrospect, this is the route I probably should have taken with my car, but hindsight is 20/20.