DrJones
07-17-2003, 01:17 AM
Many of you have probably heard of the technique known as 'claying' your car. Some of you might of even tried it. My guess is just about all of your cars could use it right now. Here is the basic's of how to clay, as well as some answers to common questions.
First off what is clay? Well clay is called clay, because well it's clay. When you buy a clay bar, you get just that. A small (usually 4 oz) bar. It has kind of a sticky surface, and very fine abrasives. It was originally developed to remove over spray from paint, and it does an awesome job of doing so.
So what does it do and why would you want to use it? Clay isn't your typical abrasive, such as the ones you use with a buffer. Those are worked into the paint and they actually cut down on the clear coat, making the surface smoother. Clay doesn't remove any paint, it simply pulls everything off the surface that isn't supposed to be there.
Even after you wash your car the paint is still really dirty. Just take a plastic sandwich bag (one of the thin ones) and put your hand inside it. Then rub your hand over your paint after a wash. You should feel some roughness in it. That is caused by very small particles that are stuck in or attached to the paint.
Properautocare.com has some good pictures:
http://www.properautocare.com/lib/classic-motoring/Chart1b.jpg
The point of the clay is to remove all that contamination so you are left with this:
http://www.properautocare.com/lib/classic-motoring/Chart2b.jpg
The contamination could be just about anything. Industrial fall out, brake dust, insects, adhesive, tar. Anything that is stuck to your surface that normal washing doesn't remove. Some times you can see it, other times it's so small you can't.
The basic idea is to rub the clay over the surface so the particles are pulled away from the paint, and put into the clay. You would be amazed at how smooth your paint can feel after claying. Even if you think it's all ready pretty smooth, claying makes a HUGE difference. Just try doing 1/2 the hood and compare them.
Clay takes off just about anything. It might take a little time, or a few tries, but even the toughest sap stains and bird bombs can be removed with ease.
So how does it work? Well there are 2 parts to every clay system. The first is the bar, the 2nd is the lubricant. Different clay systems use different products to supply the lubrication. Some use the car wash shampoo, some use a quick detail spray, and others (such as my favorite, found at www.autopia-carcare.com) have a special spray meant just for claying. The point of this lube is simple. If you used the clay dry it would make a mess of your paint. It would simply be too sticky and abrasive and would scratch your clear coat all to hell. If you don't believe me just try it. The point of the lube is to give the clay a way to make contact with the surface, where it still has it's cleaning power, but doesn't damage the paint.
The only real thing to learn when claying is how much clay to use. If you use too little you will scratch your paint. If you don't use enough the clay won't do its full job. The best way to find the proper amount is to spray the lube on the area you want to clay. Then put the bar to the surface and begin spreading the lubricant around. You don't want to use too much pressure; really it should just be the weight of the clay doing the work. When you feel the clay just begin to start griping to the surface as it slides, that is the proper amount. If you want to be a little on the safe side you can have it a little more lubricated than this.
The next step is just to slide the clay over the surface. It shouldn't take any effort to do so. It's best to go in different directions. Not circular motions but go horizontal (or which every direction you want) and then switch and go 90 degrees to it. Usually you want about 5 passes (if you are claying the whole car) to remove all the micro particles.
If it's something like sap that is fairly large you might have to hit it at several angles. It won't get wiped away all in once, but rather you'll see the clay will start to 'chip' away at the edges of the object, which will start making it smaller and smaller until it disappears.
There are a few other things to know when claying.
First, don’t' do it in the sun or on hot paint. It will evaporate the lube to fast and cause a mess
Second, most clay bars are 4oz or 6oz. You aren't supposed to use them in this size. I take my 4oz bars and split them into 4 chunks.
Third, clay doesn't last forever. When it pulls stuff off the surface, it goes into the clay. The more you use it the more that gets in there. Eventually you are just rubbing the particles that are stuck in the clay all across the surface. I'd say if you cut a 4oz bar into quarters, each should be good for a car or maybe two.
Fourth, simple rule, if you drop the bar or it touches the ground, trash it. There is no way to know what kind of particles it picked up when it hit the ground. You don’t' want to risk it and rub those into your paint.
Fifth, you need to fold your clay every once in a while. This keeps a fresh non-contaminated part of the clay touching the surface.
Sixth, you can use clay for just about everything. It has many uses. You can also use it on windows to remove bad water spots. In general if nothing else worked, try clay, you may be surprised.
That about wraps it up. In general every car has a surface that should be clayed. You don't want to do it every week (about 2x a year should be good) and you only want to do it before (not after) you are going to wax/polish/seal. Even brand new cars just off the truck will of picked up quite a bit of contaminates in their paint.
In conclusion there are many many many uses for clay. Everything to keeping brake dust out of your paint to prevent rusting, to getting rid of those highly acidic bird droppings that will etch your paint. There is really no reason why someone shouldn't have a clay bar. Most kits (lube + bar) can be bought for <$20 bucks, and that should last the average person a long time.
I think that covers about everything. If you have questions post them here. If I think of more stuff I’ll post it.
--EDIT-- Fixed about 30 spelling errors....
First off what is clay? Well clay is called clay, because well it's clay. When you buy a clay bar, you get just that. A small (usually 4 oz) bar. It has kind of a sticky surface, and very fine abrasives. It was originally developed to remove over spray from paint, and it does an awesome job of doing so.
So what does it do and why would you want to use it? Clay isn't your typical abrasive, such as the ones you use with a buffer. Those are worked into the paint and they actually cut down on the clear coat, making the surface smoother. Clay doesn't remove any paint, it simply pulls everything off the surface that isn't supposed to be there.
Even after you wash your car the paint is still really dirty. Just take a plastic sandwich bag (one of the thin ones) and put your hand inside it. Then rub your hand over your paint after a wash. You should feel some roughness in it. That is caused by very small particles that are stuck in or attached to the paint.
Properautocare.com has some good pictures:
http://www.properautocare.com/lib/classic-motoring/Chart1b.jpg
The point of the clay is to remove all that contamination so you are left with this:
http://www.properautocare.com/lib/classic-motoring/Chart2b.jpg
The contamination could be just about anything. Industrial fall out, brake dust, insects, adhesive, tar. Anything that is stuck to your surface that normal washing doesn't remove. Some times you can see it, other times it's so small you can't.
The basic idea is to rub the clay over the surface so the particles are pulled away from the paint, and put into the clay. You would be amazed at how smooth your paint can feel after claying. Even if you think it's all ready pretty smooth, claying makes a HUGE difference. Just try doing 1/2 the hood and compare them.
Clay takes off just about anything. It might take a little time, or a few tries, but even the toughest sap stains and bird bombs can be removed with ease.
So how does it work? Well there are 2 parts to every clay system. The first is the bar, the 2nd is the lubricant. Different clay systems use different products to supply the lubrication. Some use the car wash shampoo, some use a quick detail spray, and others (such as my favorite, found at www.autopia-carcare.com) have a special spray meant just for claying. The point of this lube is simple. If you used the clay dry it would make a mess of your paint. It would simply be too sticky and abrasive and would scratch your clear coat all to hell. If you don't believe me just try it. The point of the lube is to give the clay a way to make contact with the surface, where it still has it's cleaning power, but doesn't damage the paint.
The only real thing to learn when claying is how much clay to use. If you use too little you will scratch your paint. If you don't use enough the clay won't do its full job. The best way to find the proper amount is to spray the lube on the area you want to clay. Then put the bar to the surface and begin spreading the lubricant around. You don't want to use too much pressure; really it should just be the weight of the clay doing the work. When you feel the clay just begin to start griping to the surface as it slides, that is the proper amount. If you want to be a little on the safe side you can have it a little more lubricated than this.
The next step is just to slide the clay over the surface. It shouldn't take any effort to do so. It's best to go in different directions. Not circular motions but go horizontal (or which every direction you want) and then switch and go 90 degrees to it. Usually you want about 5 passes (if you are claying the whole car) to remove all the micro particles.
If it's something like sap that is fairly large you might have to hit it at several angles. It won't get wiped away all in once, but rather you'll see the clay will start to 'chip' away at the edges of the object, which will start making it smaller and smaller until it disappears.
There are a few other things to know when claying.
First, don’t' do it in the sun or on hot paint. It will evaporate the lube to fast and cause a mess
Second, most clay bars are 4oz or 6oz. You aren't supposed to use them in this size. I take my 4oz bars and split them into 4 chunks.
Third, clay doesn't last forever. When it pulls stuff off the surface, it goes into the clay. The more you use it the more that gets in there. Eventually you are just rubbing the particles that are stuck in the clay all across the surface. I'd say if you cut a 4oz bar into quarters, each should be good for a car or maybe two.
Fourth, simple rule, if you drop the bar or it touches the ground, trash it. There is no way to know what kind of particles it picked up when it hit the ground. You don’t' want to risk it and rub those into your paint.
Fifth, you need to fold your clay every once in a while. This keeps a fresh non-contaminated part of the clay touching the surface.
Sixth, you can use clay for just about everything. It has many uses. You can also use it on windows to remove bad water spots. In general if nothing else worked, try clay, you may be surprised.
That about wraps it up. In general every car has a surface that should be clayed. You don't want to do it every week (about 2x a year should be good) and you only want to do it before (not after) you are going to wax/polish/seal. Even brand new cars just off the truck will of picked up quite a bit of contaminates in their paint.
In conclusion there are many many many uses for clay. Everything to keeping brake dust out of your paint to prevent rusting, to getting rid of those highly acidic bird droppings that will etch your paint. There is really no reason why someone shouldn't have a clay bar. Most kits (lube + bar) can be bought for <$20 bucks, and that should last the average person a long time.
I think that covers about everything. If you have questions post them here. If I think of more stuff I’ll post it.
--EDIT-- Fixed about 30 spelling errors....