For the starters... [Archive] - High Altitude Imports

Shadow_Falcon

04-24-2003, 10:16 PM

Alright, this thread is for the newbies getting into motorcycles for the first time. Here's what you have to do.

1) Best place to start out is to take a Riding course, and a good one to go to is with the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. They most likely have one near you. MSF (http://www.msf-usa.org/)

2) Pick a bike suited to your needs, and don't go all out when choosing one. The best bikes to start out with nowadays are the SV-650 and the Honda CBR600F2-F3. They're easily upgradeable and are lower on insurance than most sportbikes. As far as weight goes, you want to keep the bike at a low weight, generally in the mid 300s range (350, 360, 370 or so). Bikes with low weight handle better (duh) than those with more. As a wise instructor has once said, "all you ever need is a 600." Same goes for choosing a bike.
When buying a bike, make sure it fits you, i.e., you can reach the pedals and the ground fine, sitting isn't a strain on your lower back, and you can reach the throttle/front brake/clutch with ease. Make sure that the tank is comfortable where it is around your legs. If it's not hard to shift your weight, you should be able to handle the bike fine.

3) Gear: Do NOT skip out/take the shortcut when buying gear. Shell out the extra bucks, believe me. It's better your jacket/helmet/ego get bruised up than your skin.

Helmet: Get a DOT and SNELL approved helmet. It's the only head you have, you might as well protect it! While CO has no helmet laws (they only require something to shield the eyes), don't trust yourself with the minimum amount of safety equipment. Get a helmet, it'll save your life (it's saved mine more than a couple times).

Jacket: While nylon jackets are available, leather gives you the best protection. It's best to have a skin tight jacket, so it doesn't balloon up on you as well as start rippling. Make sure the jacket is for the style/type of bike you are riding; for a crotch rocket, one with padding on the shoulders, elbows, and back to give you the most protection. On a cruiser, a typical HD style leather jacket would be more than enough, but you can find those with the same type of padding.

Gloves: Gloves protect your hands (duh). They also give you a better grip on the handlebars and throttle. Get something with protection for the palms, knuckles, and make sure you get a tight grip. Gloves are meaningless if you don't have the right fit.

Boots: Make sure you have some boots with ankle support, and a (for the most part) a hard sole. The "racing" boots that you see at most motorcycle shops aren't bad buys, and are a great way to protect your feet.

Full-on Leathers: If you're drag racing, and you run better than an 11.24@120 MPH at bandi, you're going to need a set of full leathers. The 2 and one piece suits may be expensive, but the big boys use them, and with good reason. These provide LOTS of protection, and are better than a regular leather jacket and chaps (sorry HD guys :D ). They may cost in upwards of $1500.00, but if you want to run with the big boys, you need them.

4) Tips on riding: I could go into detail about it, but here's a link to help you out from the pros.Tips (http://svrider.com/tips/images/RIDINGTIPS.zip)
It's in ZIP format, but it's worth it.

If you guys have any questions, feel free to post.

Shadow_Falcon

04-24-2003, 10:18 PM

Ahh yes... GSXR750s, GSXR1000s, GSX1300R Hayabusas, RC51s, any of the Honda RR series bikes, Kawasaki ZX-anything bigger than a 6, Yamaha R1s, etc. are NOT good starter bikes.

ryanman

04-24-2003, 10:30 PM

Or any of the Ducs. (Ducati's for you noobs)

Talus

04-25-2003, 12:03 AM

Good advice, Shadow
I'm on the lookout for a Ducati for my next bike
I want a Monster so bad;wor;

Shadow_Falcon

04-25-2003, 11:30 PM

Originally posted by ryanman
Or any of the Ducs. (Ducati's for you noobs)
Or, for that matter, most european bikes (except Royal Enfields).

ryanman

04-25-2003, 11:41 PM

There is a new Monster coming out here in a few months. It's called the S4R. It's got ALL the bad ass stuff on it including a 998 motor.

sumxaznxdood

04-28-2003, 04:16 PM

anybody selling a 600cc or even a750 bike

Shadow_Falcon

04-29-2003, 12:48 PM

Alright....this thread is for the n00bs first getting into bikes. Just to let you all know.

Some more advise.

If you're looking for a bike, get on cycletrader.com. You'll find all the bikes you need (if you got the skrillz, that is). 600s, 750s, 1000s, whatever, you'll find it there.

For the first time rider:
AVOID TARGET FIXATION. You know how when you drive, you typically drive where you're looking? Same goes for bikes, 'bout 10 fold. It's the best way to avoid hitting some truck.

Use SIPDE (if you don't know what that is, you shouldn't be riding). I use it. Racers use it. Even drag racers (especially drag racers, you don't want to know what can happen at over 130 MPH on a bike). And most smart riders use it.

Get used to the throttle. Find a specific point to keep your wrist movement at (not too high on the throttle, if you want it straight like that, you'll be at WOT all the time ;), not too low, or you'll be bending your wrist all the time). If you do that, you won't fuck up as much as you would when you adjust it all the time.

Shadow_Falcon

04-29-2003, 03:56 PM

More advise:
When on bad roads, stand on the foot-pegs, so your legs can absorb the shock when hitting a pothole or a crack in the road or something. If you're on your seat, you can easily fall off.

b18cya-T

04-29-2003, 04:07 PM

so i guess i shouln't get that 'busa, eh?

Talus

04-29-2003, 10:00 PM

More tips:
All originally from advice of others or MSF course, and used in real life- these have actually saved my butt more than once

Things break on bikes. When your car breaks, it sucks. When your bike breaks, it sucks and you can die. If something breaks while riding, immediately pull in the clutch and close the throttle. gain controll of the bike by slowing and keeping movements smooth and slow.

Dogs like to run at your bike. Maybe it's the sound or the size, but for some reason, they have this impulse to run directly at an oncomming bike. when you see a dog, slow as you approach, be ready to stop. As soon as you pass the dog, accelerate.

People become stupid when driving around motorcycles. You can see the look in their eye; that numb-minded blind-to-anything-with-less-than-four wheels look of stupidity. The solution is to ride like no one can see you, and when you approach situations with the potential for people to do something stupid, cover your controlls- put your hand and feet over the brakes, so there is less reaction time if you have to use them.

Maverick

04-30-2003, 01:06 AM

Originally posted by sumxaznxdood
anybody selling a 600cc or even a750 bike

http://www.highaltitudeimports.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10358

stu

04-30-2003, 01:28 AM

I went ahead and stickied it for you. Good stuff, thanks for the effort guys.

Shadow_Falcon

05-02-2003, 10:58 PM

Originally posted by Obi Wan B18cya
so i guess i shouln't get that 'busa, eh?
Not unless you want to fall off the back at WOT.

Besides that, busas are fairly heavy...a middleweight superbike would be a much better handler.

jontflesh

05-06-2003, 06:05 PM

Ahh it has been a while since I was around these parts. Good thread expecially on a car site where I am sure there are a lot of bike newbies who want the biggest baddest thing. Anyhoo here are a couple more things for newbies....

#1 Join the AMA. You will get a discount on most Insurance.
#2 Don't worry about riding 2 up(with a passenger) for a while. Passengers can make you drop a bike faster than anything.
#3 For theft prevention. Nothing can protect your bike 100% but get a disk lock, U lock for the rear, and a chain. Also get a bike cover but do not get one that has like GSXR, R1 or whatever on it. Get a plain one, rub it in some dirt and oil, spraypaint some tags on it. Always use the cover even if you will only be home for 10 minutes. Out of sight out of mind.
3. Buy a OEM service manual for your bike and a good tool set. Dealers charge way too much for basic mantience on a bike not to mention some will say they do work on it and in reality do not. I know this has happened to me in the past.
4. If you get a sportbike get Frame Sliders, Swingarm Sliders and Bar End sliders. DO NOT get alluminum ones, they look good but they will do more damage than not having sliders at all if you need them
5. ENJOY RIDING!

Flesh

Shadow_Falcon

05-06-2003, 11:14 PM

Good advise, Flesh! To add on to that...

Forgot about riding with a passenger...the added weight in the back is kind of tricky to work with, so unless you have ridden for a while and you know WTF you're doing, don't take on another passenger (even if she's hot LOL).

I always get an OEM service manual whenever I get a new bike. It's always best to have some idea of what you're doing or what to do instead of knowing nothing. Especially if something goes wrong while you're riding.

Some bikes come with a toolkit from the factory (like the 'busas)...KEEP THEM. Those are specifically for the bike that it comes with, and can help you out if something goes wrong.

jontflesh

05-07-2003, 02:10 PM

Hey Shadow,
Are you here in Colorado???
Do you know any of the Colorado Sportbike Club peeps?
http://www.cosportbikeclub.org/

Anywhoo if you are ever looking for riding guys/gals it is a pretty big community.
Just don't tell me you are from Labusas lol

jontflesh

V8SpankR

05-07-2003, 03:01 PM

My friend just got his first bike a couple days ago,a Yamaha V-Star 650. Nice starter bike and looks like the classic cruiser bikes.

Shadow_Falcon

05-07-2003, 09:50 PM

Yeah, I'm here in CO...I'm on Labusas, mainly for some info...but I'm usually on SH.org and SK.

As far as the CO Sportbike club goes, I'm not on it.

MichaelT

05-09-2003, 02:51 PM

Even a small monster (600) wouldn't be a good starter bike?

BoarderAJAX

05-09-2003, 03:18 PM

My buddy just got a yamaha R6, handles really nice, has good low to mid range power, perfect bike for starters

Mike

Shadow_Falcon

05-10-2003, 12:10 AM

Going straight to a 600 with no riding experience really isn't a good idea, but you can get away with it. The R6, GSXR600, CBR600F4, and the ZX6R aren't bad bikes......but it would really help you out if you took a couple courses to begin with. Going to a dealership and getting those bikes directly off the lot, with no experience is NOT recommended.
I know about the sudden urge to get a bike...take it easy. You're not impressing anyone when you get a bike like that for the first time and lay it down. Start out small, start out safe.

DSM_Luck

05-20-2003, 08:26 PM

My advice would be to get an older cheaper bike because when your learning to ride a bike there is a good chance your gonna dump it and you dont want to scratch up a brand new bike.

I started on a 600 and have dumped it 3 times... twice low speed and I dropped it and the third i got hit in a parking lot by a chick. My buddy flipped his once and dumped it 2 other times, so starting on a 600 is pretty rough.

Shadow_Falcon

05-20-2003, 10:30 PM

Exactly...get a cheap, (what looks like) a POS bike that you "don't really care about." Something under 3k. Or, if you want, get some CBR600 F2-F3 that's cheap. You dump it, plastics are cheap (compared to other bikes), and bondo somehow works when fixing it all.

Talus

05-21-2003, 01:08 AM

Holy shit, is there something wrong with me thinking that you shouldnt be constantly dumping/crashing your bike, especially when you are new??? I have never dumped my bike and I dont plan to (unless I'm on the track pushing it to the limit with full leathers)
IMO, if this is happening you either have really bad luck and should opt for more than two wheels, or you are riding out of your ability or your bike is out of your ability.
Have I been lucky to have always been riding safely and in control? Whats going on here?

DSM_Luck

05-21-2003, 01:40 AM

:rolleyes:

Im not "new". Both times i dropped it was within the first month i had it doing slow turns. I dont have a problem with motorcycle skills, and am a carefull driver. My bike is at all times under my complete control. If it wasnt like this now i wouldnt be riding.

Its cool you havent had a crash on a bike but the thing to learn is if you ride a motorcycle its not a matter of if a crash will happen its when is it going to happen. No matter how carefull you are someone eventually is gonna hit you because they are not paying attention. Alot of you wanna-be or gonna-be bike guys should think about that. Each time you go out you really are putting your life in the hands of the drivers arund you. And most people drive like shit.

Talus

05-21-2003, 02:05 AM

I didnt say you were new right at this moment, I was implying that you were new to riding when you dropped it, and you were.

But I dont share your pessimistic fate will hunt you down sort of view. There is a reason for every crash and that is the reason that we ride defensively. Even if it is the other persons fault, there is almost always something that could have been done to prevent it. More awareness, less speed, greater following distance, and attaining a position for better view will all contribute to avoiding an accident even if it is caused by somebody else. Somebody could pull out from that blind corner: anticipate it. Someone could slam on their brakes in front of you: know that it could happen and dont follow so close.
I have been in a lot of situations that could have caused an accident, including a broken chain which siezed my rear tire, and many instances of people not looking/seeing me and changing lanes into me or pulling out in front of me. every time I used SIPDE and came out on top. It's not the norm, but it's far from impossible.

DSM_Luck

05-21-2003, 02:39 AM

I get what you are saying, and i ride the same way. It has saved me from at least 2 accidents that would have been real bad. What i am saying though is if you drive a motorcycle long enough you are going to encounter a situation that you cant react to in time. Ever single guy over the age of 40 that i have talked to that have rode a good part of thier life has been in a bad accident. The facts are unless your just plain lucky or dont ride for a long period of time your gonna get hit. Talk to some older Harley guys they will tell ya. Its not pessimism its reality.

Talus

05-21-2003, 02:49 AM

Source: Motorcycle Accident Cause Factors and Identifcation of Countermeasures, Volume 1: Technical Report "The Hurt Study".

-Motorcycle equipment failure accounts for less than 3% of motorcycle accidents -- usually due to a puncture flat.
-Weather is not a factor in 98% of motorcycle accidents
-Roadway defects (pavement ridges, potholes, etc.) were the accident cause in 2% of motorcycle accidents.
-41% of the 1,203 motorcycle operators who were killed in single-vehicle crashes were intoxicated.

summary of NHTSA DOT HS 809 360 and FARS (Fatality Analysis Reporting System)
-Almost two thirds of the fatalities were associated with speeding as an operator contributing factor in the crash
-Single vehicle motorcycle crashes account for about 45 percent of all motorcyclist fatalities
-Half of the fatalities are related to negotiating a curve prior to the crash
-Braking and steering maneuvers possibly contribute for almost 25 percent of the fatalities
-In 1998, 41% of all motorcycle drivers involved in fatal crashes were speeding

DOT HS-5-01160
-The failure of motorists to detect and recognize motorcycles in traffic is the predominating cause of motorcycle accidents. The driver of the other vehicle involved in collision with the motorcycle did not see the motorcycle before the collision, or did not see the motorcycle until too late to avoid the collision.
-- In the single vehicle accidents, motorcycle rider error was present as the accident precipitating factor in about two-thirds of the cases, with the typical error being a slide out and fall due to over braking or running wide on a curve due to excess speed or under-cornering.
-The typical motorcycle pre-crash lines-of-sight to the traffic hazard portray no contribution of the limits of peripheral vision; more than three- fourths of all accident hazards are within 45 degrees of either side of straight ahead.
-Motorcycle riders with previous recent traffic citations and accidents are over represented in the accident data.
-The motorcycle riders involved in accidents are essentially without training; 92% were self-taught or learned from family or friends. Motorcycle rider training experience reduces accident involvement and is related to reduced injuries in the event of accidents.
-Lack of attention to the driving task is a common factor for the motorcyclist in an accident
-Injury severity increases with speed, alcohol involvement and motorcycle size
-------------------------------------------
With just a little research, it seems that there is a lot that can be done to keep yourself out of a crash. Most accidents can be avoided by riding per the conditions and being alert to your surroundings.
And my dad owns two hogs and I ride and talk to harley people. I think I have a realistic perception of what is going on.

DSM_Luck

05-21-2003, 01:45 PM

You can take down your chances of getting hit with good driving but to think you can stop any chance of ever getting hit just by being safe doesnt work. There are some accidents you cannot avoid. I would preffer to keep someone from getting a bike by being realistic rather than make it seem that motorcycles are completely safe if you drive right. The fact is no matter what you are wearing your sitting on top of a 300-800 pound bike with no restraints all it takes is one drivers error and you can be dead. Ive heard too many warstories from paramedics and firemen to think riding a bike is a safe way of transport. With safe driving you can increase your odds of never getting in an accident but you can never be completely sure someone isnt gonna hit you.

Talus

05-21-2003, 04:35 PM

Exactly. There is a lot that can be done to avoid accidents. I didnt say every accident, I said most. All I am saying is that there may be a completely unavoidable situation that causes an accident, but that is not how most accidents are. Thats the reason for the statistics- a little less than half of all accidents are single vehicle and most of those were driver error. This can be avoided. Along with a lot of the other situations given
but to think you can stop any chance of ever getting hit just by being safe doesnt work
-This is not what I have been saying and I am not so nieve to think that motorcycling is perfectly safe. The problem is not that motorcycle get into more crashes than cars, its that a rider is more vulnerable and has less protection, so the accidents are far more severe.
I also happen to be a firefighter and soon to be EMT, and I've heard all the same stories. I hang out with bikers, some with over 30 years experience. I have had people close to my family killed on motorcycles. I realise the risks, but I also realise what I must do to give myself and my girlfriend, occasionally as a passenger, the best odds of keeping the rubber on the road so that we may ride another day.

DSM_Luck

05-22-2003, 12:12 AM

Yea I just dont think alot of people take seriously the dangers of riding a motorcycle.

BTW I just finished EMT school and get the results back on the national registry in a few weeks.

MichaelT

05-24-2003, 12:02 AM

I think Talus and DSM Luck are perfect examples of how a simple disput can stay civilized and not turn into a flame war.

Talus

05-26-2003, 11:05 PM

Woot! we rock. Thanks for the civilized argument DSM_Luck.

Shadow_Falcon

06-02-2003, 07:34 PM

Originally posted by Talus
Holy shit, is there something wrong with me thinking that you shouldnt be constantly dumping/crashing your bike, especially when you are new??? I have never dumped my bike and I dont plan to (unless I'm on the track pushing it to the limit with full leathers)
IMO, if this is happening you either have really bad luck and should opt for more than two wheels, or you are riding out of your ability or your bike is out of your ability.
Have I been lucky to have always been riding safely and in control? Whats going on here?

I know this argument has been solved, but I can't stop thinking that I should add my two cents.

No, you shouldn't be constantly laying your bike down. However, for most riders that I've seen out there, it HAS happened, and they'll say that it will eventually happen sooner or later. I've dumped a bike on a few occasions, most of them when I started out. Even the best riders have been unlucky in certain events. It generally has to do (more often than not) with rider error from what I've seen, so blaming other factors like road conditions, weather, and the like won't cut it.

As far as being within ability is concerned, it is all about the person, and as far as ability to control the bike you're on, the amount of respect that you have for the bike as well as your control of your right wrist. You can die on a 600 just as you can on a 1300, it all depends on how much humility you can muster before you decide to squeeze that throttle.

On another note, it's good to hear that you haven't been down on a bike, either you're very controlled or you're very lucky.

pace

06-12-2003, 09:54 PM

Slightly OT, but a subject that was touched on briefly at the beginning of this thread: What exactly are the requirements for running a bike at Bandimere, and what is the threshold for requiring full leathers?

The original poster mentioned something like 11.24@120 requires full leathers (one piece?). So does that mean I have to both get a quicker E/T and trap faster, before I need full leathers? What happens if I trap faster but pull a slower E/T? Basically I ride a stock Blackbird, which I'm guessing will run mid-high 11s but trap faster than 120. My riding gear is the heavy cordura nylon type with leather reinforcement patches. Will they let me run?

Bandimere's website is very vague on this point.

Thanks guys.

-Pace

p.s Before someone accuses me of being a crazy noob; I should state that I've been riding for almost 20 years. However, I recently picked up the 'bird after a 5 year break from sportbikes. :)

jontflesh

06-19-2003, 10:16 AM

Originally posted by pace
Slightly OT, but a subject that was touched on briefly at the beginning of this thread: What exactly are the requirements for running a bike at Bandimere, and what is the threshold for requiring full leathers?

The original poster mentioned something like 11.24@120 requires full leathers (one piece?). So does that mean I have to both get a quicker E/T and trap faster, before I need full leathers? What happens if I trap faster but pull a slower E/T? Basically I ride a stock Blackbird, which I'm guessing will run mid-high 11s but trap faster than 120. My riding gear is the heavy cordura nylon type with leather reinforcement patches. Will they let me run?

Bandimere's website is very vague on this point.

Thanks guys.

-Pace

p.s Before someone accuses me of being a crazy noob; I should state that I've been riding for almost 20 years. However, I recently picked up the 'bird after a 5 year break from sportbikes. :)

I am not a drag guy more road racing but this is how the MRA list's thier rules.
As for a suit. It must be a one piece or 2 piece. The 2 piece must be connected with a zipper must be leather with armour.
Helmet must be Snell rated 95 or better and be full faced.
Leather Gloves, Leather boots that go above the ankle.

My old friend Troy races for the MRA on both drag and Road Racing if you send me a email at jontflesh@hotmail.com I will pass along his email to you

Shadow_Falcon

06-23-2003, 11:58 PM

Originally posted by pace
Slightly OT, but a subject that was touched on briefly at the beginning of this thread: What exactly are the requirements for running a bike at Bandimere, and what is the threshold for requiring full leathers?

The original poster mentioned something like 11.24@120 requires full leathers (one piece?). So does that mean I have to both get a quicker E/T and trap faster, before I need full leathers? What happens if I trap faster but pull a slower E/T? Basically I ride a stock Blackbird, which I'm guessing will run mid-high 11s but trap faster than 120. My riding gear is the heavy cordura nylon type with leather reinforcement patches. Will they let me run?

Bandimere's website is very vague on this point.

Thanks guys.

-Pace

p.s Before someone accuses me of being a crazy noob; I should state that I've been riding for almost 20 years. However, I recently picked up the 'bird after a 5 year break from sportbikes. :)
Either 1 or 2 piece leathers, with a Snell/DOT approved helmet.
Either way you go, (from what I've heard) whether it's a higher trap speed or a quicker E/T, you're going to need it. I've seen plenty of guys out there with two pieces, so don't worry about getting a one piece set of leathers. Also, as Jontflesh said, you're going to need the boots and the gloves.

I doubt tech-type jackets would cut it...they've gotten stingy with that subject in the past. However, you can always ask.

pace

07-05-2003, 09:27 PM

Thanks guys!

-Pace

Thrash-it

07-15-2003, 06:55 PM

The Suzuki SV is a good bike, its my first. It's always for sale, if the price is right too.... hint hint.

GimPin

07-15-2003, 07:35 PM

ok first of all I dont know the lingo so what is SIPDE

Pace were are you located its nice to see another black bird owner on here oh and what year is yours? I just got a 97 a couple months ago.. and no its not my first bike i had an FZR 600 (great beginer bike) which I laid down ... driver error :( noobs TAKE THE CLASS ... I learned my leson and how to ride better through my experience

one thing I would recomend as a tip is if you are at a stop light or stop sign or just stoped in traffic leave enough room between you and the car infront of you so you can get out or around him .... being rear-ended is a very common accident and it would not be fun on a bike.... so in summary always leave your self an out

pace

07-20-2003, 11:32 PM

My Blackbird is a '97 also. I picked it up earlier this year - pretty much in showroom condition with only 6,000 miles.

I took a break from streetbikes when I relocated to the USA five years ago. So the 'XX is my first streetbike in a while, but I started riding about 20 years ago. I've also ridden dirt every weekend for as long as I can remember, so it hasn't taken me too long to get re-accustomed to the sportbike.

I'm in Conifer area. I haven't seen another black 'XX up here, so if you see one it's likely mine. I saw a black one up in Nederland one day, and a silver one on the peak-to-peak. Those are the only 'XX sightings I've had.

SIPDE (Scan, Identify, Predict, Decide, Execute)

-Pace

frontieragent

01-31-2005, 01:18 AM

I just bought this bike at Fay Myers last week. Its the Honda 600RR red/black with FmF exhaust and some other goodies. It has 5313 miles. Paid $6800 and got a free HJC helmet and Alpinestars gloves.

This would be my first bike. I have only ridden a motorcycle for less than a year. I feel comfortable with the 600cc to start out as. I took a course a couple of days ago at the castle rock outlets area. It cost me $200 for a two day course and passed with flying colors. It was a good safety course overall.

Overall, I am statisfied with my ride.

marmot

03-22-2005, 05:08 PM

im a noob to bikes. nevertheless, im set on getting started.. so i know the first step is to take a safety class. do they provide bikes in most courses? what are some of the advantages of some over others? lets hear some personal experiences so i can become less ignorant

Mr. NoSkills

01-12-2006, 02:05 PM

so this thread is way old, but i thought i'd just throw in some answers from the last post.
the first level ABATE class provides bikes but the second one (the "advanced" class) you ride your own.
the advantage(s) for me were...
A: they start from the ground up. anyone who has never been on a bike can show up and do fine.
B: safety is the main thing. they teach you how to avoid trouble, and what to do when you get into trouble.
C: if you pass (which you should), you get a voucher that you can just take to the DMV for your motorcycle endorsement.
D: possible deductions on your insurance
F: some dealerships (they give you a list) will take money off of your bike purchase if you show them your card.

i went through the course last spring and thought it was well worth the price. both of our instructors were very helpful and had a lot of miles on a bike.
i would totally suggest taking the course if your new to bikes or just want some schooling.
you don't have to be new to bikes either. about four or five people in our class had been riding for awhile and just wanted some more education.

DELSOL88

01-24-2006, 11:09 AM

i wanna trade my car show cars for a nice bike or a truck.....
its a 94 civic hatch back and 240 sx 93 drift car

Steve_C

01-24-2006, 11:21 AM

i wanna trade my car show cars for a nice bike or a truck.....
its a 94 civic hatch back and 240 sx 93 drift carcan a mod delete this post and my post as well. his post has no relevance to this thread what so ever

forum

01-24-2006, 07:16 PM

so this thread is way old, but i thought i'd just throw in some answers from the last post.

Good answers, the class is truly the best way to start, and its even good if you *think* you know what you're doing. I knew how to ride before, but the class still taught me a few things. I've been riding as much as I possibly can for 2 years now, and even with paying attention and being careful I've still been hit by a moron not paying attention.

mist3rEK

02-23-2006, 11:57 PM

oh thats what SIPDE (Scan, Identify, Predict, Decide, Execute)
stands for...i took class and they use the term SEE, ( Search, Evaluate, Execute)

tdavison

07-19-2006, 10:38 AM

I just bought a R1 and a lot of heat is coming from underneath. Is there anyway to wrap the pipes to reduce the heat?

mirror

07-19-2006, 01:56 PM

is it the current gen R1 (aka nut cooker)?

tdavison

07-19-2006, 02:11 PM

yeah that's it. 2006 model

Tonnerre

04-10-2007, 07:32 PM

I have learned a lot in the 9 months I had my bike. First. Do not do your own work on a bike, pay some one that knows what you they are doing. Cheaper is not better most of the time. When you wreck, get off the road. Just because you wrecked does not mean people saw you wreck. You can ride in bad weather, but doe will not like it. This one has saves me a few time. Learn to be able to ride on a path not much more then 2 feet wide. People do not see you and you many be riding between 2 cars some day. Remember the "Bonus lane" on the side of the Roads, You may need them too.

xtremelee

11-12-2007, 07:00 PM

Brat

11-12-2007, 07:54 PM

I'm thinking about learning/starting to ride. Would a 1996 Suzuki Katana 750 be a good bike to begin with? Or should I buy a 1994 ninja 250? I have no experience but I am planing on taking classes soon. If by chance I purchase a bike before my classes I would like some feedback on a good first bike.
imo katanas are very good bikes to learn on very forgiving. i have a 92 600 katana. rode it for 10 plus years, itll run forever with good basic maintinence. the katana is a great learner bike. if i didnt like riding my tl1000r so much id still ride the ol katana. :D katanas are more of a learner bike imo bc of the riding position too, not as agressive as the newer bikes. you sit up more.
Brat